![]() Nothing is more frustrating than a bike that won't start when you're about to go on a ride. The YTZ arrives ready to be put to work.Spill-proof design and construction have passed vibration and pressure differential spill-proof tests.Packs more power, discharges less in storage and has a longer life than conventional batteries.Yuasa YTZ batteries come factory activated, meaning that they are charged, acid filled, sealed and activated during manufacture. Other benefits also include a longer shelf life, an improved life cycle performance and resistance to extreme vibration. They have an improved charge recovery capability from a deeply discharged condition. Yuasa YTZ batteries use AGM (Absorbed Glass Matt) separators with superior grid and component design. The bottom line is Yuasa is the best OEM Lead-Acid Direct Replacement Battery and will cost a few bucks more than the other brands we offer for that reason. 5 lbs more because it uses more lead and higher quality materials. Comparing this to other direct replacement Lead-Acid Motorcycle Batteries the Yuasa will typically weigh. We recommend this battery to riders looking for a quality OEM Replacement Battery that offers the best performance and longevity available. One last note is that there are fuses that look a lot like those in the Gen 2 FZ1 which are larger in size and will not work so if you go shopping for new fuses it would be a good idea to bring one from the bike along as a sample.Yuasa Lead-Acid Motorcycle Batteries are the best Lead-Acid Motorcycle Battery on the market today in our opinion. I don't remember if I was able to remove the blown fuse with my fingers or if I needed a needle nose pliers, but either way it's a simple matter. You can get a pretty good view of the latch mechanism of the fuse box from the photos. Once you've lifted the fuse box up a little you then need to unlatch the cover which is hinged. You'll find one spare of each: 20 amp (yellow), 15 amp (blue) and 10 amp (red). BTW, there are some spare fuses in the fuse box, so you may not need to run out to buy one right away if you happen to blow a fuse. A little gentle pressure with a flat bit screwdriver will allow you to unhook the latching mechanism and lift the fuse box up enough so that you can easily open it and replace a fuse. ![]() A quick glance at the photos and you can get a pretty good idea. (I've thrown my battery cover away and don't remember if it blocked access to the fuse box.) There is a latching mechanism with half of the latch being on the bracket and half on the fuse box. If your bike has a battery cover you may need to remove that if I recall. The fuse box hangs on a bracket on the frame. Fortunately, it's pretty easy to detach it. It might be possible to open the fuse box without first detaching it from the frame, but I wasn't able to do so. It's just behind (toward the rear of the bike) the positive terminal of the battery. The fuse box is located under the driver's seat, on the right side as you face forward. I first needed to get to the fuses when I blew one of them as I was installing an electrical accessory and shorted the circuit by accident. I'm hoping it will be found by others who could use a hand with this task. This information would have helped me had I been able to find it when I needed it. I'm posting some photos in case somebody ever needs a little help locating and accessing the fuse box on their Gen 2 FZ1.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |